09.05.2012 Tibetan Border Police, Tibetan Mountaineering Association
First of all, please excuse the silence of past weeks gone by.
We have been on Chinese territory and unfortunately the internet was not working in a way we had taught it would.
The best connection to the outside world was satellite modem.
Sat connection is too expensive to update our status on a daily basis.
So, back to business;
Our stay trapped in mountain village of Zhuang Mu, was not really just waste of time,
as also the TMA highest ranking officers were there and I got a change to meet them and discuss face to face about the permission matter of double traverse 2013.
Both Mr. Chon Jen and Mr.Tsering Tashi were cautiously optimistic about getting one done this time—since I was now climbing with Chinese team, having Finnish passport (German one not preferred!) and reputation in Nepal already.
You can read the whole story on my Facebook.
Well, what can i say after months of negotiations;
Subject: Everest traverse news
Dear Jan, I hope you are well. I just got off the phone with our Lhasa office director.
It seems the Everest double traverse will not be possible this year. My apologies.
Best Himalayan Regards!
we keep on trying for 2013 season!
As i have got invitation to China;
As I have written also earlier, we have been busy trying to get the Everest Double Traverse permission accepted by the Tibet Mountaineering Association and the negotiations have been somewhat successful — however we also need the permission from Tibetan border police to make all happen.
In Nepal everything works as usually— just fine!
Until now we have agreed on the price for the permission in Tibet.
Unfortunately it anyhow seems that Tibetan authorities are quite reluctant to grant a permission for this season.
I hope they would consider worthy supporting climbers like me, honoring the local people and habits, respecting and admiring the Himalayan nature and by doing that also benefit of additional marketing for the tourism in Tibet.
Well, I must stay optimistic about this, but time is really running fast now!
I wish Merry Christmas to you all. BR Jan
Double traverse, setting the new record on Everest!
Some weeks ago we started project; double traverse Mount Everest. I am trying to get back to business at Chomolungma next season.
There has been a lot of stories in internet about some climbers having managed the double traverse of Everest, but no evidence has been given out of really succeeding in it.
According the official info from Himalayan database and Elizabeth Hawley there is none and no permissions have even been given to anyone until now.
So, we would be the first to officially, with permission, climb from South Col to Summit,
decent to North Col ABC and instantly climb back over the Summit to South Col Base Camp.
All paperwork in Nepal will be ok, but first inquiry for permission for Tibet, TMA, the Chinese authorities have rejected. Now we negotiate withthe embassy here in Europe.
We have still time to manage the permission, but uncertainty eats my concentration.
As you can guess, the training for this is already extreme hard!
I keep you informed as we go ahead.
"What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to enjoy life. That is what life means and what life is for"
George Herbert Leigh Mallory - 18 June 1886 – 8 June/9 June 1924