2011

Climbing in this extreme altitude of is a privileged journey to your ultimate limits!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1_4jwk8H9Y

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We have been surpriced how many people actually stayed up and followed online our blog,  trace and 3D maps during our summit push night - many wrote to me having felt like being onboard with us - and actually followed us the whole night to the summit!

I am really honoured and thankful for your support! Nice that we could share this and you liked it.

Those of you that were from the beginning reading my newsletters, please remind what was written in November and compare it to our results.

All that i planned, worked nicely and according original script.

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My mountaineering slogans are again approved;

Beaten paths are for beaten people!

Pain is momentary, giving up is forever!

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And no man on earth could take another step closer to God - i just had to feel how that would be.

I am always longing after something, most of the time i just do not know what that is.

This i know though;

i do not anymore wake up at night, hearing the whisper of Everest, calling me there.

I have my peace and i know now why i had to climb.

Did you ever notice that our Summit was on Friday the 13th - well i am not superstitious...

Jan

 Greetings from the top of the world 13.5.2011, 04.18!

-27 degrees Celsius, 40 km winds, chill factor round—40 Celsius.

 

I have now set my feet onto Summit of Mt Everest after almost exact 8 hours climb from Camp 4, early morning of 13.5.—I waited for some 14 minutes for sunrise up there and that became to be the most meaningful, exhilarating  moments of my life until now.

I did not only climb up fast, but also got to experience the sunrise of the new day in perfect harmony up on this highest mountain, Mother Goddess of Earth, Chomolungma. Sharing it together with my climbing partner, Sonam Finjo Sherpa. And there was no interruption to our buddish—catholic ceremony, we had prepared to take place up there.

Additionally I buried a silver cylinder containing the names and pictures of my loved ones into eternal stony, icy ground of the summit.

 

As a symbol of greatest respect and ultimate support, I also brought the flag of Finnish private school in Fuengirola, Spain, Aurinkorannikon suomalainen koulu, to the summit. As I know, this is then the one and only school in the world having ever been seen atop the highest mountain of our dear earth!

 

I hope, I could be an worthy example for these children and they all had a wonderful future. Maybe someone would even be inspired to start climbing, who knows.

 

Everest Summit 13.5.2011


 

"What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to enjoy life. That is what life means and what life is for"

 

George Herbert Leigh Mallory - 18 June 1886 – 8 June/9 June 1924

 

 

 

 

 

 

SOME CORRECTIONS TO INFORMATION WRITTEN IN THE BLOG OF PEAK FREAKS

 

I have been contacted and asked about some matters, which I now want to clear as I finally have the internet connection working. The blog of PF was maintained and written by Becky, staying in Canada, Nelson. She got the information from the BC, either from Tim or Karsung, via phone—so mistakes—misunderstandings are likely to happen especially on hectic, very exiting  and nervous summit push night.

 

Here are the facts how all went;

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INTO THE DEATH ZONE

 

We were supposed to leave Camp 4 at 19.00, 12.5.2011 as there was a weather window opening, but as usual the preparations took longer time than anticipated, mostly because of additional change and double check of OZ.

I had made a plan how to climb with Kevin - as we were only 3 men (3th being Nelson) left in the team (against 4 female), we shared the tent with Kevin at Camp 4, so we had plenty of time for discussions.

Kevin is having an idealistic body structure for a high altitude climber and he is very fast. In non-steeper sections I always had problems to match his speed. In actual  steeper climbing, I could quite easily follow him, for instance at Khumbu icefall like conditions.

 

Kevin left the Camp 4 before me, as my Sherpa Sonam was having problems with his regulator and it had to be replaced, unfortunately there was no other one and we lost some time fixing the old one and testing it.

We launched to the trail towards Balcony at 20.19.

 

After 10 minutes of trail we passed Kathy and her Sherpas, she was sitting on the ground swearing something about her boots not being ok. Later I heard she had turned because of back problems, almost straight after that incident.

We kept our pace and passed several other team’s members as well as Angel, Laura and Georgina. We were passed by group of 4 Spaniards —they were really pushing hard on—well we finally took over them at Hillary step anyway…!

 

We made a very short break at the Balcony , drinking few sips of warm water and cooling off—as the down suit was way too warm still at this altitude. I left the upper part open and it froze that way until the end of the journey of cause.

 

Later ascending to the summit southeast  ridge from South Summit, we met Nelson, who had left after Kevin. He was having problems and we discussed the options he suggested. Unfortunately I already knew accident had happened at the ridge with some Japanese climber, so I could not really advice Nelson, what would be best to do. He was stating having lost all his energy and being cold. The moment up there was during the darkest and windiest moment of the night and you really could sense the danger and death being part of that moment, on this narrow ridge. He discussed also with our guide Javier arriving to place. Nelson made a very wise decision to turn back at that point.

 

As we continued towards Hillary step, Kevin showed down from the Summit and as it was still dark, I tried to persuade him to stay until sunrise, to make nice photos together. Kevin was however really cold and wanted to descend immediately.

So Kevin had reached the summit some 30 minutes before us.

 

We went on and on the southeast ridge at the accident place, the fixed rope was missing as it was still attached as a normal safety to the body of the Japanese climber, hanging head down on the Tibetan side. So we went over the distance of 10 m without safety and clicked on again after that. As we were descending later on, I documented and pictured the whole scene for THT use as I taught at the time.

 

As you can see in my pictures, the summit was empty when we arrived there with Sonam. Javier was  just in front of me, having trouble to unlock the Jumar and safety with his mittens, his Sherpa made it for him at every last anchorpoint.

I kind of taught that I do not want to stay even behind our guide and as  the summit was in reach, the fixed rope was missing also there. But there were 2 lines of old red 5 mm “handlines” and I saw my opportunity to pass Javier using the other one on the left— so I nodded a mark to Sonam and run up to the summit.

 

 

So we were 4 of us up on the summit 4.18 and Javier left way before us, after taking his photos.

 

We spent nearly one hour up there, first waiting for sunrise, which is every climbers dream time to be on the summit. And that it was for us also—we had tears in our eyes watching that pure majestic beauty in absolute silence. We were not cold nor exhausted, just taken by this moment. We did the things we wanted and had planned and peacefully prayed in silence.

This morning became to be a true revelation, too much actually to write in short words, too meaningful to destroy by quick explanations.  I hope one day, I really can explain you how it was. Until that, enjoy my photos.

 

When we descended finally and approached South Summit, we met Pam on her way up. I stopped her and said hello, but she did not recognize me at all as she later explained at the Camp 2.

 

So there were 3 of us climbers on the summit 13.5. and none at the same time.

Kevin first, me after 30 minutes behind him and Pam some 1 hour after me.

Kevin and I had a climbing Sherpa with us and Pam had 2 at that point.

 

The name list on the blog is not having  Sonam’s name on it, but a lot of other Sherpa’s names that were part of fixing the route earlier.

We climbers never had 9 Sherpas with us climbing together and standing together atop Summit as it can be understood when reading the blog.

We went fast up with our trusted partner climbers, personal Sherpas and that ‘s it. When I got back to Camp 4, most of the others—not summiting—had left for Camp 2. I asked everyone for water, as I had had—as strongly advised—only 75 cl in thermos with me,  there was none and all stoves had been already packed or taken down. At the camp there was still some Sherpas as well as Javier and Angel. I asked also Tashi and other Sherpas at their remaining tent for water or tee—whatever liquid, - without luck.

I had to head down without getting anything to drink after summit push and descending. I did not want to start eating snow as it would have eaten my rest energy very fast. Luckily some 3 hours later I met Sonam at Lothseface again and he had some 3 dl water, which he shared with me.

 

I reached the Camp 2 in the early evening and got a gret welcome and a marvellous meal - with lots to drink!  14.5 morning we headed down to Base Camp for real celebration!

Also during the decent the weather stayed clear and beautiful whole time, so we were blessed.

 

Before arriving the BC i took a moment at our Puja, to concentrate and gather my taughts. Thank for safe summit and return.

 

Later in Kathmandu I learned that all that was told about the Japanese climber accident was hearsay and rumors invented in Camp 4, nothing to do with the truth.

I have been heavily stoke by the real news, as the deceased is actually Takashi Ozaki.

World class climber, whom I had a privilege to meet and know.

During the night of 13th I did not recognize him. He got sick on his 3th summit of Everest and deceased on 12.05.2011.

 

I have passed our condolancies to his family.

We who summited, paid a huge price for that—Everest took one of the best, none of us can ever match him.

 

 

“There is another sky,

Another earth,

Beyond the world of men”

 

Takashi, rest in peace.

 

 

 

Now I must try getting back to my normal life.

I carry your memory with me.

 

 

Jan

 

 

22.04.2011 Happy Eastern

 

Please enjoy the latest pictures. Updating the site from here on has appeared to be almost impossible, i am sorry to tell. For any internet connection, i must walk 2 hours one way to Gorak Shep. Now that we have started the actual climb, that is more or less impossible.

This week we climbed to Camp 1 and tried to force us thru the hard winds towards Camp 2, but we had to settle for half way. The wind was incredibly hard on us. Some teams at Camp 1 lost their tents. One day when i am back to civilization, i will place my videos of this storm here.

I really enjoyed the climb to Camp 1 over the feared Khumbu Icefall - it was a dream come true!

As you might know, the Khumbu is considered to be the most dangerous part of the climb to Everest, because it it is constant move and anything is possible. So i throttled my engine to max and i made it in less than 3.5 hours totally, of that i can be very proud of.

Unfortunately the storm started as i got up there and it was very cold indeed as the hard wind cooled us to icecubes.

Now we are back down at BC resting for next week. On Monday we head up again and this time we must get to Camp 3. So we will be up one week. I try to update this site next weekend.

29.03.2011

Well, this is the last day in office - i have the flight to Delhi in 11 hours from now.

Tomorrow afternoon i meet the Team at Hotel Nirvana in Kathmandu and then the trek starts.

I feel far from being finished for all the preparations as i lost so much time and energy with the heel injury, but what can i say, just go for it and see what happens.

The film crew was here yesterday evening and finally we have the last scenes filmed in Nepal quite soon after arrival. Interesting people, but my concentration is already in other matters as you can imagine. But marketing is marketing and important as well.

 

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29.03.2011

JA KOLMANNELLA KOTIMAISELLA, SUOMEKSI

Terveisiä kaikille Ravensburgista, päivä alkoi sumuisena niinkuin aina keväällä, tulin toimistoon viimeistelemään töitä jo kuudelta muutaman tunnin yöunien jälkeen. Päivästä on kuitenkin tulossa kaunis. Muutama tunti töitä vielä ja menoksi Delhiin Luhthansalla Münchenistä, matkatavaraa on 62 kg,  joten rahtia tulee maksettavaksi aika lailla.

Jotta mikään ei olisi liian helppoa, jalan vamma ärhentelee yhä aika lailla ja sain tuhdin flunssan, kovalla kurkkukivulla kaupantekijäisiksi. Lienee vastareaktio influenssarokotteen tehosteelle, joka pistettiin viime viikolla. Joka tapauksessa kurkun on oltava puhdas pikimmiten, popsin nyt sitten lääkkeitä ja c-vitamiinia urakalla. Ihan tavallinen flunssa voi olla hengenvaarallinen yli 5 km korkeudessa, joten parantumista on odoteltava alhaalla siinä tapauksessa.

Turha varmaan edes mainita, että talvi HImalajalla on ollut ennätyksellisen kylmä ja eilenkin oli

Namche Bazaar'issa pakkasta pari astetta kun tavallisesti vallitsee shortsi kelit!  

Niin tietysti.

Eikun sinne... Hauskaa työviikkoa kaikille ja kotiin halaukset!   Jan

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30.03. Torstai Exit day

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Täällä sataa ja on hiostavaa, aamuyöllä lehdetään eteenpäin vuorille ja perusleiriä kohti. Maili toimii mutta päivänmittaan en pysty vastaileman, koska kiivetään ja patikoidaan iltaan. Mutta iltahan täällä on vasta iltapäivä siellä kotona.

 

 

 

Pistän parit kuvat tulemaan, niin saatte käsityksen millaista täällä on.

Kuten sanoin, on köyhyys koskettavaa ja ihmiset asuvat usein slummimaisissa olosuhteissa, vauvatkin valjastetaan kerjäläisten vetonauloiksi,jos katsot tuota yhtä kuvaa tarkasti.

Ja vain parin korttelin päässä kuninkaan ns. palatsista lehmät makaavat keskellä liikennekaaosta roskien lomassa, kulkukoirat ja lapset tonkivat kilpaa jätteitä. joita ohikulkijat heittävät.

Jokunen onnekas löytää aina osittain syömättä jääneitä rippeitä.

 

 

 

 

Kathmandusta on päästävä nopeasti pois, ettei koko reissun mieliala painu maihin.

 

 

 

 

Ei näitä poloisia voi kovinkaan kiipeilijä herkistymättä kohdata, kun niitä riittää kaikkialle ja toinen toistaan kurjemmassa kunnossa.

Koettelee ymmärtää omat motiivit olla täällä ja millaisella budjetilla verrattuna näihin kadun tavalisiin nepalilaisiin.

Ainoa lohtu on se että meidän 36 kummitytöllä on sentään koulussa lämmin ruoka joka päivä ja vaatteet ylle sekä kengät. Se on niin häkellyttävän iso asia heille.  

Ei jää epäselväksi miksi kouluun tullaan varmasti päivittäin. Kun projektiin mukaan lähdettiin, en kyllä tajunnut asian suuruutta ollenkaan ja nyt en siitä luovu koskaan.

 

 

 

 

Ihmiset ovat ystävällisiä ja tulevat luokse, muutkin kuin kerjäläiset, Iltapäivän kuumuudessa jäin tuijottamaan leikkiviä lapsia ja luokse tuli takaa vanha kurttuinen mummo, joka oikein ymmärtääkseni halusi rohkaista ja lohduttaa! Tarjosi minulle rakennusjätteistä kyhätyssä katoksessaan maitoteetä. Ainoat englanninkieliset sanansa olivat yes ja good, riittivät hyvin! Hän ei pyytänyt eikä olisi ottanut vastaan mitään.

Tästä naisesta kuvastui elämän viisays ja hyvyys sekä yhtälailla elämisen sietämätön kovuus. Tee oli hyvää ja vaikka en sitä olisikaan saanut juoda, join kuitenkin – enkä ole ripulissa ainakaan vielä.

Vettä täällä ei pidä keittämättä juoda milloinkaan.

Rogerin vaimo oli saattamassa häntä  ja sairastui eilen pahan kerran vatsatautiin, ei pystynyt tänään paluulentoon. MIkään ei pysy sisällä.

Me ollaan muuten kaikki ok ja terveinä sekä henki on korkealla.

Pikkuhiljaa tutustutaan ja opitaan tuntemaan toistemme tapoja, aivan sama ilmiö kuin hyppykavereiden kanssa, on opittava tuntemaan että luottamus syntyy ja osan kanssa on heti samalla aaltopituudella.

 

 

Omassa mielessä on jo selvä kuvat ketkä kestävät ja ketkä eivät.

Paljon terveisiä ja nyt meen nukkumaan.

Huomenna ensimmäistä kertaa Everestin edessä ja taatusti nöyränä!

 

 

 

 

Terveisin  Jan

 

 

 

 


 

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